Chris & Kelly's Travel Adventures
Today was all about the traditions in Arezzo. Once a year they hold an outdoor antique mall in the park within the original walls of Arezzo. I am no antique expert, so I wouldn't know the difference between a color by number or a Rembrant...keep that in mind. I did see some interesting and beautiful objects: the antique rowing machine, lots of old coins, and the carved carousel horse, but most of what I saw looked like a basic flea market stuff. I don't mean to sound insulting, I just couldn't tell the difference. The park did have wonderful views of the surrounding countryside which now contains the newer city limits of Arezzo. Candied hazelnuts are now our new favorite fair food!
After the antique mall, we decided to wander the ancient cobblestone streets of Arezzo, it feels like the movie set on a renaissance film. Deciding we were ready for a meal, we randomly picked a narrow street (there are dozens) with a restaurant w/outdoor seating called the "Dirty Rat". ;) Because of covid precautions and high number of people with smart phones most restaurants only have a menu that you access through your phone by a QR code. After multiple tries with various things, our poor waitress had to walk the entire sandwich board to our table 🤪. While Tuscany does pork very well, I (being from the U.S. south) was very leary about trying BBQ and I was pleasantly surprised to find I was very WRONG...it was delicious! We also had the added bonus that 2 of the jousting teams and members (archers, elders, flag throwers, sword/shield carriers and bands) marched up our street headed to the starting place of the main parade...so we got a nice preview!
Prior to the jousting match at Piazza Grande there is a huge parade in which all team members participating in the event...in one form or another march through the streets of Arezzo eventually arriving at the place of the jousting match. This is huge processional, starting with the mayor of the town, then the judges: made up from 1 elder from each neighborhood being represented in the joust...4) Then each team enters with band, flag banners, ceremonial couple, archers, foot knights w/shield & spear, flag throwers and finally the knights and horses, this is quite a spectacle. The fans wear scarves with the colors/symbols indicated for their favorite team. Once everyone is assembled in Piazza Grande all the flag throwers give a performance (see lead photo).
Information about the jousting match...if you are confused at the end of this blog- you are not alone, we are too. All online research and fliers acquired in Arezzo states: that there are 4 teams, 2 riders for each team and that each rider will ride twice per round, there is a 1st round, a 2nd round and a final round. I came up with 24, and I was wrong. It is well known that I am lousy at math, but even Chris can't make this math work...and that is bad! The official scorecard posted on the judges balcony shows 4 teams symbols above and 4 scoring slots underneath each team...so 4 x 4, 24 that does not make! Someone help me out here. The 1st team has a knight/horse race and try to hit the target...he breaks his lance on the target -the crowd goes wild, as we learn that this means that whatever score he hit on the target...there are numbered zones 1-5 (5 being bullseye) is doubled. Then the target is removed carried to the judges, who record it on a scroll, given to a page who carries through the crowd to a announcer who tells the official score, then the judges slip in a wooden plaque into the 1st scoreboard slot under that teams symbol. In this case his score was 4 x 2= 8. Then they proceed to the next team. So after 4 rides (one by each team) the scores were 8, 5, 5, 3. You with me so far?
So then it starts over, with the 1st team going again. Well, almost...many of you will want to see this for yourselves. As soon as the Arezzo government releases the youtube video of this years joust I will post the web address.
As the jouster was heading down the lane to get into position (which is lined with members of each neighboring team...2 teams each side). Some kind of communication (i'm guessing something not polite...i.e. trash talking) happened between the jouster and opposing team members who by the way were the past champions and favored to win. Then shouting began with members on foot charging the horse and jouster, whose own team members on foot now joined the shouting, gestures and such and pretty soon punching, kicking and a free for all was happening on the field and in some of the bleachers between fans! Then the security joined the fray, it was a fun time had by all. 6 members of teams had so much fun they were expelled!
Back to the tournament (about 30 minutes later) 4 more rides (again one by each team) ... as a reminder this is only 8 rides total: these scores- 3,5,0,5. After the last team struck his target, one team erupted in cheers, one section of fans started screaming and people got up to leave. We thought it was 1/2 time or something and people were going to potty breaks or get refreshments and thought it odd that a team would celebrate so early in the tournament, but what do we know...we are just tourists! Then a minute or two later the gates were opened and fans rushed the field, so we knew it was over, but still do not understand why or how. LOL. The team who broke the lance in round one (also the jouster on the horse in the fight) won the match. If anyone understands this better than we do, please fill us in...we are puzzled. It was certainly colorful and entertaining! Please forgive the lousy jousting shot below...I thought I had a lot more chances for pictures 🤔
